Fisher & Paykel Washers 20 Error: Lid open / pause
Fisher & Paykel washer error code 20 is a low-severity fault meaning Lid open or cycle pause — lid switch not confirming closed. If code 20 appears only because the lid was opened mid-cycle, it is safe to close the lid and resume. Closing the lid fully will clear code 20 if the switch is functioning.
~80%
DIY Fixable
From $45
Typical Repair Cost
15 min–1 hr
Pro Repair Time
Quick Assessment
Answer to continue safely
Is it safe to keep using?
Maybe. If code 20 appears only because the lid was opened mid-cycle, it is safe to close the lid and resume. If the lid switch itself has failed, do not bypass or tape down the lid — the switch is a spin safety interlock that prevents injury from the spinning basket.
Can I reset the code?
Yes. Closing the lid fully will clear code 20 if the switch is functioning. If the lid is closed and code 20 remains, power-cycle the machine. Persistent code 20 with lid closed indicates a switch or latch fault requiring repair.
When to stop immediately?
Stop if you notice: Do not attempt to wedge or tape the lid to bypass the safety switch, Code 20 combined with an unusual humming noise may indicate motor or drive issues.
Symptoms You May Notice
Machine pauses mid-cycle with code 20
The cycle stops and code 20 is displayed, indicating the controller believes the lid is open or the lid switch is not confirming a closed state.
Machine will not start with lid down
Pressing Start does nothing and code 20 remains on the display even though the lid appears fully closed.
Spin disabled while wash continues
Fill and agitate may continue normally but spin — which requires a confirmed-closed lid for safety — is blocked.
Possible Causes
Lid genuinely open or ajar
The lid is not fully latched — a garment is caught in the seal, or the lid was opened mid-cycle.
DIY PossibleWorn or broken lid latch
The plastic latch tab that depresses the lid switch has broken or worn down so it no longer actuates the switch when the lid is closed.
DIY PossibleFailed lid switch
The microswitch that confirms lid closure has failed open and will not signal the controller even when the lid is physically closed and latched.
DIY PossibleFaulty lid switch wiring
The wiring between the lid switch and the main PCB has been broken or intermittently disconnected.
DIY PossibleSafe Checks You Can Do
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1
Confirm lid is fully latched
Open and firmly close the lid, ensuring no clothing or fabric is caught in the seal. Press down on all four corners of the lid to check for any warping.
Overloaded machines are prone to garments sitting above the tub rim, which prevents the lid from fully seating.
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2
Inspect the lid latch tab
Look at the underside of the lid at the latch point. The small plastic tab or striker that pushes down on the lid switch should be intact. A missing or cracked tab is a common cause of code 20.
The latch tab is a low-cost replacement part and is often available from local appliance parts suppliers.
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3
Test the lid switch
With the machine unplugged, access the lid switch (located under the top panel near the lid hinge area on most SmartDrive models). Use a multimeter in continuity mode — the switch should close (beep) when the latch tab is pressed and open when released.
A switch that reads open in both positions has failed and needs replacement.
Tools required
When to Call a Professional
Contact a qualified technician if:
- Lid switch wiring runs through the lid hinge area and may require partial lid disassembly to replace
- If code 20 is accompanied by other fault codes, broader diagnosis is needed
Need Professional Help?
Find qualified technicians in your area for proper diagnostics and repair.
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